           Hair Jewelry Exhibit Howes Brothers Photographs Pro Brush Ad Strategy     
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Covered Hair Brooches
1. Monogrammed Hair Brooch, c. 1850 (60.496)
This large hair brooch, bordered with a ring of tiny pearls, features a gold monogram incised into the cabochon cut glass covering the hair. The pearl decoration symbolizes tears and reminds us this that brooch would not be worn during the early stages of mourning. The hair is loosely braided under to create a woven effect; weaving the hair is the most typical treatment of hair in the brooches in the collection. The slightly convex, gold back reveals the personal inscription, "Fred to Sarah."
2. Hair Brooch, c. 1850-70 (71.155)
This hair brooch has an elaborately detailed gold border and contains at least four different colors of hair. It is an excellent example of how someone might save hair from their family members and incorporate it into one brooch. Perhaps the wearer began with one or two hair colors and then added to it as her loved ones passed away. In this brooch, the hair is loosely wound and placed under the glass, a different style than the woven effect of several other brooches in the collection3. Memorial Brooch with Jet Border, c. 1840-90 (71.166)
Because hair jewelry was often exchanged between lovers and not always to commemorate the death of a loved one, this brooch is an excellent example of memorial hair jewelry. The border is composed of pear shaped, simply faceted jet pieces; jet, and its various imitators, was the most popular material for mourning jewelry. The jet in this piece is highly polished, another indication that this is for the later stages of mourning. The two colors of hair are woven in quarter inch sections to create a multi-colored mat effect. The chain would secure the pin at the neck.4. Memorial Brooch with Enamel Border, 1800-10 (71.165)
One of the earlier examples of hair jewelry in the collection, this piece is bordered with a twisted ribbon motif. The ribbons are decorated with black enamel, a durable and less expensive alternative to jet ornamentation. The hair underneath the glass is loosely woven.5. Small Hair Brooch, c. 1850 (01.318)
This small brooch is a good example of less expensive hair jewelry. The metal has a copper tint, indicating it is perhaps low-quality gold or copper, and the only ornament is an opalescent, shell border. The tightly woven hair forms a compact pattern of light and dark hair, adding another element of decoration to the piece.
Contents Historic Northampton.